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Now a days my 4 months labrador is feeling weakness in his back legs and when he stood up he feel ache. Suggest remedy. His all vaccination is done and he eats everything.
I have parakeet budgie, he is very sick and lost serious weight and now he can not even walk, he has swollen abdomen, does not poop well, poop often stick to bottom, and he always stick round the corner of the cage. His digestion is not well? Please suggest solution.
House training is accomplished by rewarding your puppy for eliminating where you want him to go (outside) AND by preventing him from urinating or defecating in unacceptable places (inside the house). You should keep crating and confinement to a minimum, but some amount of restriction is usually necessary for your puppy to learn to “hold it.” (To learn how to crate train your puppy, please see our article, Weekend Crate Training.)
How Long It Will Take
Some puppies learn where and where not to eliminate at a very young age, while others take longer to understand. Most puppies can be reasonably housetrained by four to six months of age. However, some puppies are not 100% reliable until they are eight to twelve months of age. Some puppies seem to catch on early but then regress. This is normal. Keep in mind that it may take a while for your puppy to develop bowel and bladder control. He may be mentally capable of learning to eliminate outdoors instead of inside, but he may not yet be physically capable of controlling his body.
How Often Your Puppy Needs to Go Out
All puppies are different, but a puppy can usually only hold his waste for the same number of hours as his age in months. (In other words, a four-month-old pup should not be left alone for more than four consecutive hours without an opportunity to go outside.) He can last longer at night, however, since he’s inactive (just like we can). By the time your pup is about four months old, he should be able to make it through the night without going outside.
House Training Steps
1. Keep your puppy on a consistent daily feeding schedule and remove food between meals.
2. Take the puppy outside on a consistent schedule. Puppies should be taken out every hour, as well as shortly after meals, play and naps. All puppies should go out first thing in the morning, last thing at night and before being confined or left alone.
3. In between these outings, know where your puppy is at all times. You need to watch for early signs that he needs to eliminate so that you can anticipate and prevent accidents from happening. These signs include pacing, whining, circling, sniffing or leaving the room. If you see any of these, take your puppy outside as quickly as possible. Not all puppies learn to let their caretakers know that they need to go outside by barking or scratching at the door. Some will pace a bit and then just eliminate inside. So watch your puppy carefully.
4. If you can’t watch your puppy, he must be confined to a crate or a small room with the door closed or blocked with a baby gate. Alternatively, you can tether him to you by a leash that does not give him much leeway around you (about a six-foot leash). Gradually, over days or weeks, give your puppy more freedom, starting with freedom a small area, like the kitchen, and gradually increasing it to larger areas, or multiple rooms, in your home. If he eliminates outside, give him some free time in the house (about 15 to 20 minutes to start), and then put him back in his crate or small room. If all goes well, gradually increase the amount of time he can spend out of confinement.
5. Accompany your puppy outside and reward him whenever he eliminates outdoors with praise, treats, play or a walk. It’s best to take your puppy to the same place each time because the smells often prompt puppies to eliminate. Some puppies will eliminate early on in a walk. Others need to move about and play for a bit first.
6. If you catch your puppy in the act of eliminating inside, clap sharply twice, just enough to startle but not scare him. (If your puppy seems upset or scared by your clapping, clap a little softer the next time you catch him in the act.) When startled, the puppy should stop in mid-stream. Immediately run with him outside, encouraging him to come with you the whole way. (If necessary, take your puppy gently by the collar to run him outside.) Allow your pup to finish eliminating outside, and then reward him with happy praise and a small treat. If he has nothing to eliminate when he gets outside, don’t worry. Just try to be more watchful of him in the house in the future. If your puppy has an accident but you don’t catch him in the act and only find the accident afterward, do nothing to your pup. He cannot connect any punishment with something he did hours or even minutes ago.
Additional House Training Tips
Clean accidents with an enzymatic cleanser to minimize odors that might attract the puppy back to the same spot.
Once your puppy is house trained in your home, he may still have accidents when visiting others’ homes. That’s because puppies need to generalize their learning to new environments. Just because they seem to know something in one place does NOT mean that they’ll automatically know that thing everywhere. You’ll need to watch your puppy carefully when you visit new places together and be sure to take him out often.
Likewise, if something in your puppy’s environment changes, he may have a lapse in house training. For example, a puppy might seem completely house trained until you bring home a large potted tree—which may look to him like a perfect place to lift his leg!
House training does require an investment of time and effort—but it can be done! If you’re consistent, your hard work will pay off. Hang in there! If you need help, don’t hesitate to contact a qualified professional, such as a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT), a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or Associate CAAB) or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB). To find one of these experts in your area, please see our article, Finding Professional Help.
What NOT to Do
Do not rub your puppy’s nose in his waste.
Do not scold your dog for eliminating indoors. Instead, if you catch him in the act, make a noise to startle him and stop him from urinating or defecating. Then immediately show your dog where you want him to go by running with him outside, waiting until he goes, and then praising and rewarding him.
Do not physically punish your puppy for accidents (hitting with newspaper, spanking, etc.). Realize that if your puppy has accidents in the house, you failed to adequately supervise him, you did not take him outside frequently enough, or you ignored or were unaware of his signals that he needed to go outside.
Do not confine your puppy to a small area for hours each day, without doing anything else to correct the problem.
Do not crate your puppy if he’s soiling in the crate.
If your puppy enjoys being outside, don’t bring him inside right after he eliminates or he may learn to “hold it” so that he can stay outside longer.
Do not clean with an ammonia-based cleanser. Urine contains ammonia. Cleaning with ammonia could attract your puppy back to the same spot to urinate again. Instead, use an enzymatic cleaner. You can find one at some grocery stores or any major pet store.
Hello Sir. I have a pet (dog). It is one year old and it is regular in vaccine. 10 days back teeth of pet injected in to my very minure and I got one drop blood by pressing it out. Immediately I washed and now there is any problem with that. Please help me out.
My 9 year old lab, Leo, started throwing up once in a week or so in March. We got his blood test done and the Vet was treating him for the minor infection that showed up in his reports. A month passed by but he still threw up and the frequency started increasing to once in 3-4 days. That is when we changed our vet and he got a blood test done for Leo too. He also thought it is an intestinal infection which needs different antibiotic treatment and that is what we did. However, once the course was over, his vomiting would reappear. So we tried different medications a few times and then thought its probably some kinds of obstruction in his stomach. So we got a X-ray, sonography and yesterday we even did an endoscopy done. All the reports came out normal. His present condition is that he hasn't eaten anything in over a week now and throws up (even bile sometimes) a few times in a day. He just drinks water and is on saline through IV everyday since that past 10 days or so. I don't know what else can we do to detect what is wrong with him and when will he actually start eating. He is energetic for the most part of the day and is no pain at all. What do I do? I am really worried.
Every year, millions of unwanted dogs and cats, including puppies and kittens, are ORPHANED, END UP BECOMING MALNOURISHED, ROAM ON STREETS AND ARE PRONE TO ACCIDENTAL DEATHS. The good news is that RESPONSIBLE PET OWNERS can make a difference. By having your dog or cat sterilized, you will do your part to prevent the birth of unwanted puppies and kittens. Spaying and neutering prevent unwanted litters and may reduce many of the behavioural problems associated with the mating instinct.
Spaying eliminates heat cycles and generally reduces the unwanted behaviours that may lead to owner frustration. Neutering male dogs and cats reduces the breeding instinct and can have a calming effect, making them less inclined to roam and more content to stay at home.
Early spaying of female dogs and cats can help PROTECT THEM FROM some serious health problems later in life such as UTERINE INFECTIONS AND BREAST CANCER. Neutering your male pet can also lessen its risk of developing BENIGN PROSTATIC HYPERPLASIA (ENLARGED PROSTATE GLAND) AND TESTICULAR CANCER.
The procedure has NO EFFECT ON A PET'S INTELLIGENCE OR ABILITY TO LEARN, PLAY, WORK OR HUNT. Most pets tend to be better behaved following surgical removal of their ovaries or testes, making them more desirable companions.
When to spay or neuter:
Talk to us about the most appropriate time to spay or neuter your pet based upon its breed, age and physical condition. Keep in mind that, contrary to popular belief, it may NOT be best to wait until your female dog or cat has gone through its first heat cycle.
Side effects of spaying/neutering:
The common myth is that pets put on weight after neutering, which up to an extent is true. Neutering reduces the BMR – Basal Metabolic Rate of the pets. However, as long as the diet and exercise if kept proper – pets DO NOT put on exorbitant weight. Urinary incontinence is another side effect observed in older females sterilized in older age. However, the side effects certainly do not weigh more than the benefits of spaying or neutering.
Discuss about this in detail with us, on your next visit. BE A RESPONSIBLE PET PARENT – NEUTER/SPAY YOUR PETS!!!
Rough hair coats, diarrhea, malnutrition progressing to intestinal obstruction, and anemia are common issues with worms. We want to feed our pets - not the parasites. That is why we deworm dogs and cats. Don't wait until you are sure your pet has parasites because they have already caused damage at this point.
STRATEGIC DEWORMING GUIDELINES
Strategically deworming dogs and cats is a practice recommended by the American Association of Veterinary Parasitologists (AAVP) and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC).
DEWORMING PUPPIES AND KITTENS
Worms in puppies and kittens are common. This growth phase of their life is when they are most susceptible! Knowing when to worm puppies and kittens is important.
• Deworm puppies and kittens at 2, 4, 6, & 8 weeks of age, then again at 12 & 16 weeks of age.
• Deworm again at 6 months and 1 year.
• Then deworm as an adult.
ADULTS - WORMING DOGS AND CATS
We are recommending the standard here. If your dog or cat is a big hunter, they will need more frequent deworming - you must assess the risk for your pet.
• General Dog or Cat Worming: Thrice a year for life.
o Dogs put everything in their mouth and need deworming twice a year to eliminate the parasites they will pick up. Deworm outside cats thrice a year for the same reason.
• Cats that are strictly inside animals: Deworm twice a year.
• Cats that like to hunt: 3 times a year may be necessary.
NEWLY ACQUIRED ANIMALS
No matter what the history or age, assume they have parasites!
• Deworm immediately and repeat in 2 weeks.
• Then put on the above adult program.
WORMS IN DOGS AND CATS
• Roundworms and Hookworms
• Roundworms, Hookworms, Whipworms & Tapeworms
• Tapeworm, Roundworm & Hookworms
Offer several bowls of water throughout the house. Basically almost every room has a water bowl in it so they don’t have to go far to get a drink.
Offer a variety of bowls. Some dogs like to drink from ceramic bowls, some stainless steel bowls and some plastic or glass bowls. Keep a variety of bowls in the house or stick to one style that you know your dog likes. If your dog doesn’t drink a lot of water try switching the bowl.
Make the water easily accessible. If you have a senior dog maybe it hurts for them to bend down and grab a drink. An elevated bowl might be more comfortable for them. It’s suggested that a dog or cat’s bowl be raised to a level above the wrist and below the elbow. At this height less stress is put on the muscles, ligaments, tendons, vertebrae, and intervertebral discs of the neck because the head remains at a normal level instead of having to stretch to the ground to lap water or grasp food and then lift back up to swallow. You can do this without buying an expensive product. Check out this elevated dog dish made from a planter.
Add water to your dog’s food or add canned food to their diet. If you don’t think your dog is getting enough water on their own try helping them out by adding it for them. Can food is normally made up of 70-80% moisture. Dry food contains about 10% moisture.
Add some flavoring to their water. Low sodium chicken broth (minus onions) or bone broth added to plain water may entice your dog to drink more. Does your dog like cucumbers? Try some of those!
Make sure the water and the bowls are clean. Do you drink dirty, warm water? Why should your dog? Changing the water frequently throughout the day will keep the water fresher, cooler and healthier. Make sure your washing the water bowl regularly also. Slime build ups on the bowl over time and can contain harmful bacteria.
Offer ice cubes. Ice cubes can be a great summer treat for dog and there’s no harm in them. You can even add some dog safe fruit to them for an extra special treat or mix some water with low sodium chicken broth of bone broth. The Honest Kitchen makes product called Ice Pups that you combine with water and serve to your dog warm or cold or you can get some Freezy Pups and make some healthy frozen treats. You can even make a flavored ice bowl.
Invest in a pet fountain. Most dogs love drinking moving water so give it to them! A big plus is you’ll be changing the water less frequent and it’s filtered water! That’s a win for everyone.
Make sure you’re bringing water with you on outings. Cold water. With ice.There are several different types of products out on the market today that this shouldn’t be an issue. Traveling water bowls, water cups, water bottles…etc. Don’t want to buy one of those? Bring along a water jug. I fill half with water and half with ice and it stays nice and cool for a long time!
*Bonus tip-If you have a bigger dog, fill up a bucket full of water and add some ice cubes or frozen fruit and let them go bobbin for some fat free healthy treats! If you have a smaller dog, try a pail!