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My dog is a 1 year 5 months old male spitz. From few days i was observing a red coloured patch around its left nose. It seems as if there has been some hair loss. My local vet has prescribed a lotion named wakazole containing miconazole nitrate.But while applying it my dog gets very irritated and licks all over.I am applying it from last three days but the patch has not decreased.So i want to know is there any oral medicine as an alternative for this ailment.If yes then how to give it and for how long to continue?i would be thankful for your advice.
Over the past few months, I have offered diet critiques that tweaked good home-prepared diets in order to address health concerns – or simply to optimize the diet. To do this, I analyzed the diets and compared them to the National Research Council’s guidelines for canine nutrition. I want to be clear, though: I don’t believe this is a requirement for feeding a home made diet. Just as with the diet you feed yourself and your family, feeding a wide variety of healthy foods in appropriate proportions should meet the needs of most healthy dogs.
Don’t bother trying to make every single one of your dog’s meal nutritionally complete; as long as he’s receiving what he needs over a week or two (often referred to as “balance over time”), he’ll be fine. This approach is similar to how we feed ourselves and our families.
Problems arise with how this description is interpreted.
Too often, people think that they’re feeding a healthy diet when key ingredients may be missing or are fed in excess. Here are specific guidelines to help ensure that the diet you feed meets your dog’s requirements.
Complete and Balanced
It’s important that the diet you feed your dog is “complete and balanced,” meaning it meets all of your dog’s nutritional needs. It is not important, however, that every meal be complete and balanced, unless you feed the same meal every day with little or no variation.
Home-prepared diets that include a wide variety of foods fed at different meals rely on balance over time, not at every meal. Similar to the way humans eat, as long as your dog gets everything he needs spread out over each week or two, his diet will be complete and balanced.
A human nutritionist would never expect someone to follow a single recipe with no variation, as veterinary nutritionists routinely do. Instead, a human would be given guidelines in terms of food groups and portion sizes. As long as your dog doesn't have a health problem that requires a very specific diet, there’s no reason you can’t do the same for your dog.
Keep in mind that puppies are more susceptible to problems caused by nutritional deficiencies or excesses than adult dogs are. Large-breed puppies are particularly at risk from too much calcium prior to puberty.
Following are guidelines for feeding a raw or cooked home made diet to healthy dogs. No single type of food, such as chicken, should ever make up more than half the diet.
Except where specified, foods can be fed either raw or cooked. Leftovers from your table can be included as long as they’re foods you would eat yourself, not fatty scraps.
Meat and Other Animal Products: Should always make up at least half of the diet. Many raw diets are excessively high in fat, which can lead to obesity. Another potential hazard of diets containing too much fat: If an owner restricts the amount fed (in order to control the dog’s weight) too much, the dog may suffer deficiencies of other required nutrients.
Unless your dog gets regular, intense exercise, use lean meats (no more than 10 percent fat), remove skin from poultry, and cut off separable fat. It’s better to feed dark meat poultry than breast, however, unless your dog requires a very low-fat diet.
Raw Meaty Bones (optional): If you choose to feed them, RMBs should make up one third to one half of the total diet. Use the lower end of the range if you feed bony parts such as chicken necks and backs, but you can feed more if you’re using primarily meatier parts such as chicken thighs. Never feed cooked bones.
Boneless Meat: Include both poultry and red meat. Heart is a good choice, as it is lean and often less expensive than other muscle meats.
Fish: Provides vitamin D, which otherwise should be supplemented. Canned fish with bones, such as sardines (packed in water, not oil), jack mackerel, and pink salmon, are good choices. Remove bones from fish you cook yourself, and never feed raw Pacific salmon, trout, or related species. You can feed small amounts of fish daily, or larger amounts once or twice a week. The total amount should be about one ounce of fish per pound of other meats (including RMBs).
Organs: Liver should make up roughly 5 percent of this category, or about one ounce of liver per pound of other animal products. Beef liver is especially nutritious, but include chicken or other types of liver at least occasionally as well. Feeding small amounts of liver daily or every other day is preferable to feeding larger amounts less often.
Fruits such as melon, berries, bananas, apples, pears, and papayas can be included in your dog’s food or given as training treats.
Eggs: Highly nutritious addition to any diet. Dogs weighing about 20 pounds can have a whole egg every day, but give less to smaller dogs.
Dairy: Plain yogurt and kefir are well tolerated by most dogs (try goat’s milk products if you see problems). Cottage and ricotta cheese are also good options. Limit other forms of cheese, as most are high in fat.
Fruits and Vegetables: While not a significant part of the evolutionary diet of the dog and wolf, fruits and vegetables provide fiber that supports digestive health, as well as antioxidants and other beneficial nutrients that contribute to health and longevity. Deeply colored vegetables and fruits are the most nutritious.
Starchy Vegetables: Veggies such as potatoes, sweet potatoes, and winter squashes (including pumpkin), as well as legumes (beans), provide carbohydrate calories that can be helpful in reducing food costs and keeping weight on skinny and very active dogs. Quantities should be limited for overweight dogs. Starchy foods must be cooked in order to be digestible by dogs.
Leafy Green and Other Non-Starchy Vegetables: These are low in calories and can be fed in any quantity desired. Too much can cause gas, and raw, cruciferous veggies such as broccoli and cauliflower can suppress thyroid function (cook them if you feed large amounts). Raw vegetables must be pureed in a food processor, blender, or juicer in order to be digested properly by dogs, though whole raw veggies are not harmful and can be used as treats.
Fruits: Bananas, apples, berries, melon, and papaya are good choices. Avoid grapes and raisins, which can cause kidney failure in dogs.
Grains: Controversial, as they may contribute to inflammation caused by allergies, arthritis, or inflammatory bowel disease (IBD); as well as seizures and other problems (it’s not clear whether starchy vegetables do the same). Some grains contain gluten that may cause digestive problems for certain dogs. Many dogs do fine with grains, however, and they can be used to reduce the overall cost of feeding a home made diet.
Grains and starchy veggies should make up no more than half the diet. Good choices include oatmeal, brown rice, quinoa, barley, and pasta. White rice can be used to settle an upset stomach, particularly if overcooked with extra water, but it’s low in nutrition and should not make up a large part of the diet. All grains must be well cooked.
Some supplements are required. Others may be needed if you are not able to feed a variety of foods, or if you leave out one or more of the food groups above. In addition, the longer food is cooked or frozen, the more nutrients are lost. Here are some supplements to consider:
Calcium: Unless you feed RMBs, all homemade diets must be supplemented with calcium. The amount found in multivitamin and mineral supplements is not enough. Give 800 to 1,000 mg calcium per pound of food (excluding non-starchy vegetables). You can use any form of plain calcium, including eggshells ground to powder in a clean coffee grinder (1/2 teaspoon eggshell powder provides about 1,000 mg calcium). Animal Essentials’ Seaweed Calcium provides additional minerals, as well.
Oils: Most homemade diets require added oils for fat, calories, and to supply particular nutrients. It’s important to use the right types of oils, as each supplies different nutrients.
Fish Oil: Provides EPA and DHA, omega-3 fatty acids that help to regulate the immune system and reduce inflammation. Give an amount that provides about 300 mg EPA and DHA combined per 20 to 30 pounds of body weight on days you don’t feed fish. Note that liquid fish oil supplements often tell you to give much more than this, which can result in too many calories from fat.
Cod Liver Oil: Provides vitamins A and D as well as EPA and DHA. If you don’t feed much fish, give cod liver oil in an amount that provides about 400 IUs vitamin D daily for a 100-pound dog (proportionately less for smaller dogs). Can be combined with other fish oil to increase the amount of EPA and DHA if desired.
Top-quality fish body oil and cod liver oil can provide your dog’s diet with valuable omega-3 fatty acids. Be cautious about feeding the amounts suggested on the labels, however; these often supply too much fat.
Plant Oils: If you don’t feed much poultry fat, found in dark meat and skin, linoleic acid, an essential omega-6 fatty acid, may be insufficient. You can use walnut, hempseed, corn, vegetable (soybean), or high-linoleic safflower oil to supply linoleic acid if needed. Add about one teaspoon of oil per pound of meat and other animal products, or twice that amount if using canola or sunflower oil. Olive oil and high-oleic safflower oil are low in omega-6 and cannot be used as a substitute, although small amounts can be added to supply fat if needed. Coconut oil provides mostly saturated fats, and can be used in addition to but not as a replacement for other oils.
Other Vitamins and Minerals: In addition to vitamin D discussed above, certain vitamins and minerals may be short in some homemade diets, particularly those that don’t include organ meats or vegetables. The more limited the diet that you feed, the more important supplements become, but even highly varied diets are likely to be light in a few areas.
Vitamin E: All homemade diets I’ve analyzed have been short on vitamin E, and the need for vitamin E increases when you supplement with oils. Too much vitamin E, however, may be counterproductive. Give 1 to 2 IUs per pound of body weight daily.
Iodine: Too much or too little iodine can suppress thyroid function, and it’s hard to know how much is in the diet. A 50-pound dog needs about 300 mcg (micrograms) of iodine daily. Kelp is high in iodine, though the amount varies considerably among supplements.
Multivitamin and mineral supplements: A multivitamin and mineral supplement will help to meet most requirements, including iodine and vitamins D and E, but it’s important not to oversupplement minerals. If using the one-a-day type of human supplements, such as Centrum for Adults under 50, give one per 40 to 50 pounds of body weight daily. Note that most supplements made for dogs provide a reasonable amount of vitamins but are low in minerals, and so won’t make up for deficiencies in the diet. Be cautious with small dogs; I’ve seen some supplements that recommend the same dosage for 10-pound dogs as for those weighing 50 or even 100 pounds. In those cases, the dosage is usually too high for the small dogs and should be reduced. Products made for humans are also inappropriate for small dogs.
Green Blends: Often containing alfalfa and various herbs, green blends may be especially helpful if you don’t include many green vegetables in your dog’s diet. You can also use a pre-mix that includes alfalfa and vegetables, such as The Honest Kitchen’s Preference. Note most pre-mixes also supply calcium, so you should reduce or eliminate calcium supplements, depending on how much of the pre-mix you use.
My female Lab is 13 years old and has not been mated. Every year in the month of February she lactates and milk flows out of her rear tw breasts which she keeps sucking and self feeds. What is the remedy for this as due to her sucking the breasts have enlarged.Please advise.
Sir.My dog i not eating anything.Even it is it's favourite ones also.It was so weak.What should i do?please help me!
My female labrador, aged 9 years was diagnosed with diabetes which is now under control, but she has lost her vision due to a milky blue layer formation on the lens. Is it curable by surgery? What are the side effects post surgery?
I have just adopted labrador pup he is 35 days old. My concern is when should I get him his 1st vaccination. As from whom I adopted he said on 42 days direct booster I consulted 1 vet doctor he said you should start from, 33 days age I am confused. Kindly guide He wants to bite on everything I think he is getting irritated as his teeth are erupting kindly reply.
How many times to feed a stray dog? n what food to feed exactly so that they get all the nutrients they need?
Dehydration is a common disorder in dogs and humans equally. It occurs when an excess of fluids continuously get eliminated from the body irrespective of the amount of fluids your dog intakes. Water working as the "potion for life" is essential for dogs too as it keeps them hydrated and makes sure the biological processes take place smoothly in them. Dehydration is a serious disorder and may result in as serious consequences as organ failure or even death. To know if your dog is suffering from dehydration, learn the symptoms carefully make a move as quickly as possible.
Symptoms of dehydration in dogs:
- Dryness in the mouth and sticky gums. Often dehydration results in sticky gums and dry mouth in dogs as the water content of the body gradually falls down.
- Sunken eyes. Sunken eyes can be considered as a pronounced symptom of dehydration.
- Loss of appetite. Appetite is related to dehydration as the digestion, metabolism and other reactions in dog's body need water to successfully take place.
- Abnormal sleepiness. Dehydration causes Depression and abnormal rate of sleeping in turn.
- Abnormal urination. If your dog is suffering from Dehydration, it will either urinate too little or too much. This abnormal sign in urination speaks a lot about the dehydrated state of your dog.
- Less elasticity of skin or tightness of the skin coat. This can be determined by a simple skin test. Pull your dog's skin and if it does not spring back in 2 seconds, your dog is dehydrated.
If you face problems with determining the level of dehydration, kindly take it to a Veterinarian. He/she will readily note the symptoms and apply proper treatment which should be the prime step in order to save your pet from such situations. Delays will only narrow its chances of surviving. It is also important to understand what causes Dehydration in your dog. This would certainly help you from bumping into such situations further in future.
Causes of dehydration in dogs:
The major reason or cause of Dehydration is illness and overexposing to the sunshine. An ill dog is more prone to get dehydrated than a healthy one. Several diseases like,
- Renal failure
- Diabetes mellitus
- Diabetes insipidus
- Gastrointestinal problems, etc. can affect your dog on a large scale and trigger off Dehydration with time.
To take care of such situations from taking place, you should keep in mind a few guidelines. The following tips will certainly prevent your dog from being dehydrated again if taken into account.
Prevention of dehydration in dogs:
- Protect your dog from being overexposed to heat.
- Make it drink as much water as it can every time. Always put a small bowl of water at the corner of its room. Monitor its water intake capacity and keep it hydrated.
- Keep the toilet lid closed in order to prevent it from plunging its mouth inside. This will keep it away from bacteria and viruses which would affect it and make it fall sick.
- If you go for exercising in the evening with your dog, bring extra water so that it stays hydrated.
Consult with a Veterinarian if its drinking less amount of water.
Sir I have a dog by one compounder wrong injections it is in final stage it is not eating food and water from 8 days and not standing with legs.
My labra dog is 6 month old and his weight is 28 kg mere dog ko bahut khujali ho rahi he or vo itna khujata he ki vaha se blood nikal aata he please help me.
I have a lab and he has a swelling plus he is limping in his right fore arm. Please suggest medication
My dog actually got a tumor just below it's rib. My dog is not feeling any pain when I touch the tumour I am afraid please help what medication should be taken.
My dog is vomiting water like liquid little foamy with tiny bits of blood, it happened twice, one 5 days back in the morning around 4am, then at 2am. During vomiting he collapsed and paralyzed without any movement. Both time he woke up after 5 mins and he was active. I gave him Ranitac and vomited (half). Please help me, I am scared, he is 12 yrs old. 6 months back he had UTI. He is being given Nefrotec DS 2 tabs a day from 6 months as Advised by Vet. Please Please Help me, save my boy.
Is there any doctor who can consult about my pet dog. If it is than tell me the whole procedure for the vaccination and time period also. Thanks
Hello. My pet is almost 11 years old. It is a bitch. Of german Shepherd breed. She have not done any mating yet. Also she is dwarf. She weights almost 20-25 kg. Perhaps. I am thinking to get her cross once. So will it be ok for her to do mating at this age. As it would be her's first time.
My parrot ate tomatoes and then his activity reduced and then he is continuously crying and is swollen up from front part baby is not even 20 days please help fast.
Many animals receive “kennel cough” vaccines that include bordetella and cpi and cav-2 every 6 to 9 months without evidence that this frequency of vaccination is necessary or beneficial. In contrast, other dogs are never vaccinated for kennel cough and diseases are not seen. Cpi immunity lasts at least 3 years when given intranasally and cav -2 immunity lasts a minimum of 7 years parenterally for cav-i. These two virus in combination with bordetella bronchiseptica are the agents, which are often associated with kennel cough, however, other factors play an important role in diseases (eg. Stress, dust, humidity, molds, mycoplasma, etc.).
Thus, kennel cough is not a vaccine preventable disease because of the complex factors associated with this disease. Furthermore, this is often a mild to moderate self limiting disease. It's just like common cold in humans. A course of antibiotics usually is enough to treat the condition. I generally do not recommend kennel cough vaccines unless dogs are staying in a boarding facility that requires them.