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Common intestinal parasites in dogs and cats
You've probably heard the names before
1. Roundworms, 2. Hookworms, 3. Whip-worms and 4. Tapeworms. These are the intestinal parasites most often seen in pets, and each of them can harm your dog or cat in unique ways.
Symptoms of intestinal parasites in pets
While worms are usually found in puppies and kittens, infection can occur in dogs and cats of all ages. Signs of an intestinal parasite infection can include:
Death (in severe infestations)
Note that these signs can also be associated with other diseases so if you observe any of them, you should take your pet in to see your veterinarian for an examination. Diagnosing an intestinal parasite infection is usually done through a laboratory analysis of your pet’s faeces.
De-worming has become a controversial subject.
Developing de-worming strategies requires consideration of a several different things, including:
• What parasites are in the area?
• Are the risks the same all year round or are they seasonal?
• What parasites pose a risk to an individual pet or what are the pet’s chances of exposure? (e.g. Does the pet go outside? Is it exposed to many other animals? Are there multiple pets in the household?)
• Are there any people in the household at particular risk for parasitic infections? (e.g. young children, people with developmental disorders that might be more likely to be exposed to pet faeces?)
Everyone agrees puppies and kittens need more aggressive de-worming, but there are a few different approaches to managing de-worming in adult animals.
So as far as myself consider regular de-worming in these schedules:
Puppy de-worming: (age 40 days – 120 days) preferably suspension
(I don’t recommend de-worming puppies before 30 days as it may affect their nutritional absorption mechanism and reduce the immunity level, while they are feeding with the dam I think they are well protected. )
1. Puppy at the age of 40-60 days while doing the primary vaccine
2. Next second dose at the booster stage around 15 days from the first dose i.e. around 55 days – 75 days.
3. Third dose is at 90-120 days
Puppies at 120-180 Days of age: preferably tablet
De-worming around 180 days is preferable and do consult with your vets for specific drug of choice depending up on breed and their nature of infection they have
Semi adult dogs 180 – 360 days: preferably tablets
In this period you can de-worm the puppy either once in 2 months if you have a group or pack of dogs or you can once in three months if you have just one dog with you
Adult dogs anything above 360 days
Once in every 3 months i.e.. yearly four times is the recommended Schedule for Asia
BITCH IN HEAT: special condition
Should be de-wormed at 4- 5 th day of heat and repeat dosage at 9-10th day second dose and third and final dose is after whelping and after the milking period stops i.e. after whelping 60 days apart best way to maintain the breeding bitch as per standards
Choosing the right dewormer for your dog
There are many different types and brands of de-wormers on the MARKET: and determining which dewormer to use, whether to administer it by pill or liquid, and at what dose can depend on a lot of factors.
Knowing which dewormer to use and at what dose can depend on a variety of things such as the type of intestinal parasite present, and the age, size and current health of your pet. Aside from reading the labels on de-worming products, it’s important to discuss the options and your dog’s unique needs with your veterinarian first.
Your veterinarian can recommend a product that’s appropriate for your pet after a diagnosis has been made of the type and species of the parasite. In addition, some medications can also be used to help control intestinal parasites. Considering that some parasites can infect people as well as pets, certain de-wormers may be used as a preventive measure to decrease the risk to humans.
1. Make sure your dog has unlimited access to fresh water all the time.
2. Make sure your dog has access to shade when outside.
3. Take walks during the cooler hours of the day. Avoid 5-7pm evening as the steam emitting from the road can kill your pet with heat stroke!
4. When walking, try to stay off of hot surfaces (like coal tar roads) because it can burn your dog's paws.
5. If you feel it's hot outside, it's even hotter for your pet - make sure your pet has a means of cooling off.
6. Keep your dog free of external insects (fleas, ticks) - consult your veterinarian about the best product for your pet.
7. Consider clipping or shaving dogs with long coats (talk to your veterinarian first to see if it's appropriate for your pet).
8. If you have a short nose breed like pugs or bulldogs, keep a Turkish towel with you whenever traveling. Whenever you notice he/she is panting heavily, you can soak the towel in water n wrap it around his body to have a local cooling effect.
I have a black rabbit and he's 2 years old, my question is how can I help him wid his loose motions.
Name: Teddy Breed: Golden Lab Age: 4yr 11months Sex : Male Current Problem: 2 cm growth in Urinary Bladder, Stone and Urine Infection with inflammation in prostate. Passes blood in last flow of his urine. The situation has gone worst, irregular flow of urine. Urge of urine is there but the flow is not there. Today, after the ultra sound and the X- Ray it has been further diagnosed a growth in urinary bladder and has been further prescribed to get Urine Cytology test. The quantity of stone has also increased. As per Dr?s the main concern is the abnormal growth in the bladder than the stone?s now. Treatment:- Current- Only anti biotics- Daflon 500, Augmentin 375- twice daily for 10 days till the next report Catheter was inserted Four times in two months, after which it couldn?t be inserted because of inflammation. Other than catheter, 1) Neeri ? twice daily 2) Cithral- Once Daily 3) Anti Biotic were injected as well History:- 1) As a pup, always had upset stomach. Situation was quite bad and was given steroids. 2) Two years back, he had a low blood count and non stop puking. We got Teddy when he was about 30 days old and now its been nearly 5 years. To me, he is more important to me than any one else. His Nature:- 1) Overtly friendly 2) Doesn?t bite in any condition, be it as extreme as any stranger pushing his food aside while he is having his meal. 3) When goes for a walk, prefers to be on clean places. He is also very smart and will tap you with his hand when he wants to go out. 4) Loves to run in park but hasn?t been able to. Society restrictions. Food Habits:- 1) No daal, carrot, cabbage or any other vegetables. 2) Moody on rice 3) Enjoys chicken soup, chicken, bones, egg ( boiled, raw, half fried) 4) Water intake is very less 5) Love dog biscuits, Rusk, Pizza Crust. His daily meal includes:- Summers Morning:- 4- 5 Boiled Egg and 4 Roti/ 4-5 Boiled Egg and 5 white bread. Evening:- Chicken Soup with 250gm chicken and 2 hand full of Oats/ Chicken Soup with chicken and Roti/ Chicken soup with chicken and rice Earlier used to give curd regularly. Winters: Morning: Chicken Soup with 250gm Chicken and 2- 3 handful of Oats/ Chicken soup with 250gm Chicken and bread Evening: Chicken soup with chicken and roti/ Chicken Soup with Chicken and Oats/ Chicken soup with chicken and rice His Nature Teddy has always been a family dog. He never wishes to be friends with other dogs who are always barking or are more excited than he is at that point of time. Actually, he has been friends only with Pups. In fact more than him, I think it is our insecurity/ fear or care for teddy, that we do not allow him to mix with dogs around. ( majority of them ferocious). Also, he gets very cranky and wants to go be out always during the mating season. (thrice an year). Except for the weekends, he is usually alone at home the entire day. (9.30am- 4.30pm) where he does not eat or drink anything. Food bowls remain the same as we leave it for him. ( untouched). Whenever he is in pain due to any reason, he is usually barking and becomes cranky. (doesn?t mean he cries but feel like he yells for attention) Other than the above, he is very affectionate towards his family and very eager to for backrubs and hugs. He is a very happy dog
My parrot ate tomatoes and then his activity reduced and then he is continuously crying and is swollen up from front part baby is not even 20 days please help fast.
Sir maire pass labra hai. Uska back portion bilkul hi jyda weak hai vo chall bi ni patta hai bilkul bii. Koe bolta hai ki usko palayis hai mujhe smjh ni arha hai ki mai kya kruu. Ap guide krea kisi bi doctor ko pta ni lag rha hai usko hua kya hai phle thik tha achi trah chalta bi tha par ab vo khada bi ni ho skta ek min k lea bi
Mouth cap/basket muzzle
My dog(labrador retriever) has hip dysplyasia.He is 8 mnths old, i am givibg him megaflex, nd steriods injection to strengthen his muscles. Can u brief mewith the condition and treatment of dis
Hi, I have a two-year old male cocker spaniel named Zorro. He starts barking whenever he says a stranger on the road be it kids or others or even other dogs. But he absolutely loves the people he knows apart from his family. Since we stay in an apartment I've been trying to figure out what could be done to make him a lil friendly towards people that will calm him down when I walk him daily. He doesn't try to bitw or anything, just barks non-stop. Kindly give me some insight on this. Thanks.
I am 30 years old female. I have pet cat in home. I want to know is there any blood test that can detect if I have any infection in my blood or body from cats? Please advise.
House training is accomplished by rewarding your puppy for eliminating where you want him to go (outside) AND by preventing him from urinating or defecating in unacceptable places (inside the house). You should keep crating and confinement to a minimum, but some amount of restriction is usually necessary for your puppy to learn to “hold it.” (To learn how to crate train your puppy, please see our article, Weekend Crate Training.)
How Long It Will Take
Some puppies learn where and where not to eliminate at a very young age, while others take longer to understand. Most puppies can be reasonably housetrained by four to six months of age. However, some puppies are not 100% reliable until they are eight to twelve months of age. Some puppies seem to catch on early but then regress. This is normal. Keep in mind that it may take a while for your puppy to develop bowel and bladder control. He may be mentally capable of learning to eliminate outdoors instead of inside, but he may not yet be physically capable of controlling his body.
How Often Your Puppy Needs to Go Out
All puppies are different, but a puppy can usually only hold his waste for the same number of hours as his age in months. (In other words, a four-month-old pup should not be left alone for more than four consecutive hours without an opportunity to go outside.) He can last longer at night, however, since he’s inactive (just like we can). By the time your pup is about four months old, he should be able to make it through the night without going outside.
House Training Steps
1. Keep your puppy on a consistent daily feeding schedule and remove food between meals.
2. Take the puppy outside on a consistent schedule. Puppies should be taken out every hour, as well as shortly after meals, play and naps. All puppies should go out first thing in the morning, last thing at night and before being confined or left alone.
3. In between these outings, know where your puppy is at all times. You need to watch for early signs that he needs to eliminate so that you can anticipate and prevent accidents from happening. These signs include pacing, whining, circling, sniffing or leaving the room. If you see any of these, take your puppy outside as quickly as possible. Not all puppies learn to let their caretakers know that they need to go outside by barking or scratching at the door. Some will pace a bit and then just eliminate inside. So watch your puppy carefully.
4. If you can’t watch your puppy, he must be confined to a crate or a small room with the door closed or blocked with a baby gate. Alternatively, you can tether him to you by a leash that does not give him much leeway around you (about a six-foot leash). Gradually, over days or weeks, give your puppy more freedom, starting with freedom a small area, like the kitchen, and gradually increasing it to larger areas, or multiple rooms, in your home. If he eliminates outside, give him some free time in the house (about 15 to 20 minutes to start), and then put him back in his crate or small room. If all goes well, gradually increase the amount of time he can spend out of confinement.
5. Accompany your puppy outside and reward him whenever he eliminates outdoors with praise, treats, play or a walk. It’s best to take your puppy to the same place each time because the smells often prompt puppies to eliminate. Some puppies will eliminate early on in a walk. Others need to move about and play for a bit first.
6. If you catch your puppy in the act of eliminating inside, clap sharply twice, just enough to startle but not scare him. (If your puppy seems upset or scared by your clapping, clap a little softer the next time you catch him in the act.) When startled, the puppy should stop in mid-stream. Immediately run with him outside, encouraging him to come with you the whole way. (If necessary, take your puppy gently by the collar to run him outside.) Allow your pup to finish eliminating outside, and then reward him with happy praise and a small treat. If he has nothing to eliminate when he gets outside, don’t worry. Just try to be more watchful of him in the house in the future. If your puppy has an accident but you don’t catch him in the act and only find the accident afterward, do nothing to your pup. He cannot connect any punishment with something he did hours or even minutes ago.
Additional House Training Tips
Clean accidents with an enzymatic cleanser to minimize odors that might attract the puppy back to the same spot.
Once your puppy is house trained in your home, he may still have accidents when visiting others’ homes. That’s because puppies need to generalize their learning to new environments. Just because they seem to know something in one place does NOT mean that they’ll automatically know that thing everywhere. You’ll need to watch your puppy carefully when you visit new places together and be sure to take him out often.
Likewise, if something in your puppy’s environment changes, he may have a lapse in house training. For example, a puppy might seem completely house trained until you bring home a large potted tree—which may look to him like a perfect place to lift his leg!
House training does require an investment of time and effort—but it can be done! If you’re consistent, your hard work will pay off. Hang in there! If you need help, don’t hesitate to contact a qualified professional, such as a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT), a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or Associate CAAB) or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB). To find one of these experts in your area, please see our article, Finding Professional Help.
What NOT to Do
Do not rub your puppy’s nose in his waste.
Do not scold your dog for eliminating indoors. Instead, if you catch him in the act, make a noise to startle him and stop him from urinating or defecating. Then immediately show your dog where you want him to go by running with him outside, waiting until he goes, and then praising and rewarding him.
Do not physically punish your puppy for accidents (hitting with newspaper, spanking, etc.). Realize that if your puppy has accidents in the house, you failed to adequately supervise him, you did not take him outside frequently enough, or you ignored or were unaware of his signals that he needed to go outside.
Do not confine your puppy to a small area for hours each day, without doing anything else to correct the problem.
Do not crate your puppy if he’s soiling in the crate.
If your puppy enjoys being outside, don’t bring him inside right after he eliminates or he may learn to “hold it” so that he can stay outside longer.
Do not clean with an ammonia-based cleanser. Urine contains ammonia. Cleaning with ammonia could attract your puppy back to the same spot to urinate again. Instead, use an enzymatic cleaner. You can find one at some grocery stores or any major pet store.
Hello. My pet is almost 11 years old. It is a bitch. Of german Shepherd breed. She have not done any mating yet. Also she is dwarf. She weights almost 20-25 kg. Perhaps. I am thinking to get her cross once. So will it be ok for her to do mating at this age. As it would be her's first time.
Talking to your dog like he/she is a person.
Treating your dog like he/she is a person.
Allowing dogs to do what they want because it will hurt their "feelings"
Dressing them up in little doggie clothes.
Remember, humanizing your dog is fulfilling your own human needs, not your dogs. Humanizing dogs does more harm than good.
Doctor can you help me with my black female lab who is 6 month old. I feel that she has some problem with her coat as I find her hairs more often on clothes and bed. Though her coat looks to be fine, shiny and hairy yet this hair loss concerns me. Is it fine or any sort of symptom? And also how to help with her unclean ears?
Sir, my dog 5years old is having slight breathing problem with sound like it is having some congestion but it is quite healthy with no cough or fever and is active. It is having slight constipation. Deworming done on 16-09-2015. Pls help I am in great tension. Pls help.
I have lhasa apso puppy 50days old he is not drinking water his urin is smell strong. As he not drinking water I give him milk. He eat drools starters.
How to Teach Your Dog to Walk Nicely on a Leash
You’ve probably seen dogs at shows or on TV who prance alongside their handlers, staring up with rapt attention. These dogs have received extensive training in precision heeling. It’s impressive but demanding work. Precision heeling demands constant attention from both dog and handler and is not appropriate for long periods of time, like for your daily walks around the block or to the park. Even dogs trained to heel need to learn to walk on leash without pulling when they’re not formally heeling.
You can use various methods to teach dogs to walk without pulling on leash. No single method works for all dogs. Here are some overall guidelines before we look at several methods:
Until your dog learns to walk without pulling, consider all walks training sessions. Keep training sessions frequent, short and fun for your dog.
Since loose-leash training sessions will be too short and slow to provide adequate exercise, find other ways to exercise your dog until he’s mastered loose-leash walking. In fact, you’ll succeed more quickly if you find a way to tire your dog out before taking him on a training walk. Dogs pull, in part, because they’re full of excess energy. So unless you can expend that energy, your dog will find it hard to control himself. Before you train, play fetch in a hallway or your backyard, play a vigorous game of tug, or drive your dog to the park so that he can play with his buddies.
Teaching a dog to walk without pulling requires plenty of rewards. Use highly desirable treats that your dog doesn’t get at other times. Soft treats are best so your dog can eat them quickly and continue training. Most dogs love wieners, cheese, cooked chicken or ham, small jerky treats or freeze-dried liver. Chop all treats into small peanut-sized cubes.
Walk at a quick pace. If your dog trots or runs, she’ll have fewer opportunities to catch a whiff of something enticing, and she’ll be less inclined to stop and eliminate every few steps. Additionally, you are far more interesting to your dog when you move quickly.
If you expect your dog to control herself while walking on leash, you must also expect her to control herself before you go for a walk. If she gets wildly excited as you prepare for a walk, you need to focus on that first. Walk to the door and pick up the leash. If your dog races around, barks, whines, spins or jumps up, just stand completely still. Do and say absolutely nothing until your dog calms down a bit. As soon as she has all four paws on the floor, slowly reach toward her to clip on the leash. If she starts to bounce around or jump up on you, quickly bring your hands (and the leash) back toward your body. Wait until your dog has all four paws on the floor again. Then slowly reach toward her again to attach her leash. Repeat this sequence until your dog can stand in front of you, without jumping up or running around, while you clip on her leash. This may seem like a tedious exercise at first, but if you’re consistent, your hard work will pay off. Eventually, your dog will learn to stand still while you attach her leash.